Hello!
It’s been a year since I wrote in my newsletter on this Indonesian Independence Day! The 17th of August marks the Indonesian independence from the Netherlands in 1945. In case you have not read it, last year, I wrote about the history and origin of rijsttafel — the nearly unending parade of small plates all filled with different Indonesian cuisine that is very often found in Indonesian restaurants in the Netherlands.
Although this day is marked as a bank holiday in Indonesia, which means no school or work, when I was in school, we still had to attend our school's mandatory Independence Day ceremony to honor those who have fallen in duty for the nation. You might think it’s annoying that you still have to go to school on a bank holiday, but this day was actually quite fun as the ceremony was usually followed by fun games (which I learned that the games are also adopted from the Dutch). To name a few, we had balap karung. This popular game involves kids racing to the finish line with their legs inside a sack. We also had makan kerupuk where the participants had to eat the kerupuk (Indonesian crackers) hung in a rope as fast as possible.
A celebratory cone
During these ceremonial days, events are usually followed by a tumpeng dish — a cone-shaped mound of rice, typically white or yellow from turmeric, served with seven side dishes. There are 17 (!!) types of tumpeng, and some are specifically meant for celebratory occasions such as Independence Day, birthdays, or even weddings.
Yes, it’s gigantic and very, very extra. Tumpeng is served in tampah, a round bamboo platter, covered by banana leaves. Although there are various kinds of tumpeng, the rice is typically white or yellow from the turmeric. The cone-shaped rice forms the centerpiece of the dish.
While the time and origin of tumpeng are unknown, it is widely believed that tumpeng originated during a time when Hinduism was the predominant religion in the Javanese kingdom. The symbols of tumpeng — such as mountain-shaped rice, colors, and ingredients — are thought to reflect Hindu beliefs. A mountain is believed to be a holy, sacred place as a portal between earth and the heavens. Even though Hinduism greatly influenced the tumpeng tradition, in Javanese ancient religion, kejawen, a mountain is also a sacred place where God is believed to reside at the summit. The side dishes, including vegetables and proteins, represent the life and harmony of nature.
Despite the different beliefs, tumpeng is a sacred dish with a rich story and philosophical values that go beyond the grand and delicious appearance.
Tumpeng eating etiquette
The way we eat Tumpeng also holds meanings and philosophies. I will quote from the Indonesia Gastronomy Association adviser herself, Ibu Murdjati Gardjito, that the right way to enjoy tumpeng was in fact by scooping out the rice and its varied side dishes from the bottom by using a rice ladle - not even a spoon or a knife.
She stated that for Javanese people, tumpeng was not just a symbol of celebration but rather a medium for communicating with the creator of nature. As the cone-shaped top of the dish symbolizes the one and only God, if the top of the dish is cut first, it is believed to cut the connection between humans and the Almighty. Unlike the tradition of cutting a birthday cake, there is no requirement for the first person served from the Tumpeng to be the oldest or most esteemed guest. Instead, all guests are invited to scoop out the rice together, signifying equality among everyone present.
My (failed) tumpeng attempt
In April, one of my girlfriends turned 30. So say no more — I'm throwing her a tumpeng party! Except.. I do not have a cone shaper. So is it still a tumpeng? Well, not really — maybe more of a deconstructed version, which ended up looking more like a rijsttafel instead. But I still made it festive with the yellow rice, and plenty of side dishes, all nicely plated in banana leaves.
My version includes turmeric-based rice, ayam goreng kuning (Indonesian fried chicken), tempe orek (stir-fried tempe in sweet soy sauce), urap (mixed vegetables with grated spiced coconut), jukut nangka (Balinese style jackfruit with red beans stew), and soft-boiled eggs that were supposed to be fried and mixed with chilies — except I got too impatient and peeled them before they were done. I also made two types of sambal: one with torch ginger flower and another with andaliman pepper, both ingredients I brought from the homeland. Nonetheless, we were all well-fed and happy!
So, how do you celebrate these occasions in your culture? Whether you stick to tradition, or improvise a bit like myself, I’d love to hear stories from your dining table.
Thank you for reading today’s letter!
-AP.
that's a lot of work of nasi tumpeng but it looks so good!!
Such an interesting piece, especially the part about nasi tumpeng. Will help me prevent a cultural faux pas once I'm back in Indonesia, thanks!